Looking after an orphaned Tawny Owl (cont.)

Preparing for release

10. Experience of hunting -- catching live mice

It's a good idea, though not absolutely necessary, to "teach" the young owl to catch live prey. There's very little more to this than buying three or four live mice and putting them out for the owl in a suitable place. You should find that it has no problem knowing what to do.

In more detail. Where to get the mice? The only ones I ever bought I got from a pet shop. Make sure you have somewhere reasonable to keep them for a few days. They can be fed on larger bird mixes (include sunflower seeds, with or without husks) -- e.g. a wild bird or pigeon mix. Give them water too.

Presenting the mouse to the owl can be done in a small garden shed or greenhouse, a small cleared room (even think loo or bathroom), in a very large box (sides of at least 3 feet) or, failing all else, a bath. Obviously there mustn't be any exits the mouse can use, or places from which you can't recover it, like under a washing machine or cupboards. Good idea to give the mouse rustly cover like dried leaves, which can be put in a small shallow box (sides not higher than 3-4 inches to avoid damage to the owl's wings. Cut a box down if you have to. Going back to the large box, the mouse goes in the bottom and you leave the owl perched on the side. If you use a bath put an old blanket or similar all along the bottom so the owl doesn't slip, and the owl can be perched on a bath tray (the thing that goes across the bath to hold soap etc) or your hand if the tray is too insecure. In all cases use dried autumn leaves or similar debris from outside to give the mouse cover and simulate natural conditions for the owl. The rustling helps to catch its interest and stimulate the hunting instinct, as it does a cat.

Tawnies seem to be hard-wired and know exactly what to do. If it doesn't, don't feed the bird for a day and try again. If that doesn't do the trick, withold food for one more day and try again. If everything's working the whole show can be over in a couple of minutes.

Only give one mouse at a time and repeat a few days later with another.

11. Walks and checking out the release area

It's a good idea to accustom the owl to the outside world before release, and to do it I'm going to suggest that you make a pair of "jesses" so you can take the owl with you. Jesses are the leather straps that owl keepers use to tether birds or keep them on the wrist. They are easily made. You don't have to do this, but it's a great help to the owl to be walked around the future release area, and you'll find it rewarding to see the interest it takes in its surroundings. As wild owls are attracted to a tethered owl it may may also help to show whether there are already others in the area.

Making jesses. Buy some softish but quite tough leather. You need a piece about 1 foot by six inches and 1 mm or so thick. Mark out the jesses for cutting. Each jesse is 12 inches long. 10 inches of this length should be made about 5/8 inch wide. At one end increase this width to just over an inch (1 and 1/8 in, or 3 cm). Don't increase the width abruptly -- there should be a "shoulder" where the width increases over half an inch or more.

The shape you've marked out should look a bit like a tadpole, with a long tail and a broader head. Mark out the last inch or so of the tail so that it narrows to a point. The "head" end wraps around the owl's leg, and the pointy tail will be pulled through a hole in the head and tightened to hold the owl's legs securely. (For purists, this part of the "leg" is of course the upper part of the foot.)

Jesse kit

The jesses are the long leather strips. The one on the right is shown without the tail pulled through the slit, the one on the left is shown as worn, with the tail pulled through the slit to make a narrower part. Fully explained below.

The glove shown here is a welder's glove, but a stout gardening glove should be plenty. It doesn't even have to be leather -- just thick. The wrist needs protection as that's where an owl often chooses to stand. The reason for wearing a glove is that owls' claws hurt. The glove is worn on the left hand.

Note how the cord is attached to the glove. You don't have to do this, but if you don't, tie a loop in the cord and keep it round your wrist. The cord here looks short, but I find that owls can sit on my shoulder when my arm is down by my side. You may find that your owl prefers sitting on a shoulder as it gets a better view. Insist on it using the left shoulder.

Cut the two shapes out of the piece of leather with sharp kitchen or dressmaking scissors.

Now, on a centre half an inch back from the tip of the broad head end mark a round hole about 3/8 in across. Fold the leather across the circle and carefully cut it out so you have a hole of the size you've marked. Trim off the square end of the leather so the "tadpole" now has a nicely rounded head. Leave at least 1/4 in of leather margin around the hole you've just made.

Next, starting about 3 1/4 inches back from the head, in the "tail" part of the strip, mark and cut a slit about 1 1/4 inch long. The mark should be made parallel to the length and go back to about 4 1/2 in from the tip of the head. The aim is to end up with a slit that's 1 in to 1 1/4 in long. Cut the slit with a Stanley knife or similar.

Finally, about 2 inches (or a little more) from the tail end cut or punch a smaller hole than the one at the head end. This is to take the clip on a dog lead, or just cord if you don't have or want to buy a lead.

You should now have two strips of leather, each with a hole near the broad end, a slit just beyond where the leather narrows, and a small hole near the tail end. The leather should have a soft, slightly rough side and a smooth side.

One more step and you're done. Take each jesse so that the smooth, outer side is facing you. Now take the pointed end of the tail and thread it through the slit just behind the head. Pull the entire tail through and pull quite hard until the jesse is straight. You end up with a narrower, twisted part behind the head of the jesse. The purpose of this is to act as a kind of catch when the jesse is fastened to the owl's leg -- the narrow neck sits neatly in the hole in the head. You'll see.

Putting the jesses on. Easier said than done at first, though the owl gets used to it after a while. Basically, place the head end of the jesse around a leg just above the foot (not higher), thread the pointed tail through the hole in the head and pull tight around the leg until the twisted part is sitting neatly in the hole. The jesse shouldn't actually be tight on the owl, but if made correctly it won't slip over the feet and will pull tight like a noose if the owl jumps off you.

Jesse attachment

Front and rear view showing how the jesses fit on the owl. Soft side goes inside, against the leg. The noose should be pulled close but not tight. If they're properly made they're comfortable and secure -- the owl is not bothered by them and it can't escape. But watch out because it can certainly pull them off if you leave it unattended!

The actual business of getting the jesses on the first few times can be difficult and require patience. The owl will deftly lift its foot out of the noose just as you are pulling it to! It may simply fly off. As a last resort get someone to hold the owl firmly in their lap or against their chest/stomach, legs pointing outwards. Wait for it to calm down and then attach the jesses. Attach the dog lead clip through the holes in the tails of the jesses (both of them) and you're done.

Well, nearly done. Because before you go outside the owl must get used to the idea of being tethered like this, and it will fly off a few times before it gets the idea. In fact this is usually very little trouble as owls learn about jesses quickly and will not attempt to jump after a short while. Taking an owl out then becomes a very pleasurable experience for both of you. So, to accustom the owl to the jesses stay indoors in a room with no hard places or furniture on which it could hurt itself. Have the owl on your gloved left hand or wrist. A gardening glove should be quite adequate. Stand or walk around slowly. The owl will fly off a few times and be brought up short by the lead or cord. It won't be hurt as long as you don't jerk the lead back and avoid hard furniture. Offer your hand for it to climb back on to. Be careful in case it tries to scramble up your front towards your face. Give verbal encouragement and keep calm. Have kitchen wipes handy to deal with messes (and always take a supply out with you! Car wipes are even better as they kill the smell).

The young owl will appreciate being taken out. This one is about 75 days old, or two and a half months, and is taking a keen interest in her surroundings. Note how the jesses hang down from the rear -- you shouldn't have them so they come out at the front. The photo was taken in a garden, a good place to start the first time the owl is taken out in case things don't go to plan.

First time out. Whether you take the owl out the first time jesses are put on depends on how it adjusts to having them on. You also need to be reasonably confident that they don't come off when the owl jumps away, which is another good reason for a few trials indoors. With an owl that accepts them quickly it's quite possible to go out the first time, though be prepared for attempts to fly off. With new jesses one may slip a leg, and even if both come off (very unlikely) the owl will probably be so surprised it'll sit on the ground until you pick it up -- but be quick about it! Better to go accompanied by someone so that they can help reattach the jesses if necessary.

If travelling to the release or walk area by car, put the owl in a pet carrier with jesses on but lead off. Don't have an owl that's not used to a car loose inside the vehicle. Before getting out you'll need to check that the jesses are still firmly attached as owls loosen and remove them with their beaks. This and clipping the lead on to the jesses should be done with the car doors shut, though tawnies are remarkably amenable and usually make no attempt to escape.

Walking with the owl. The best place to walk is the area where the owl's going to be released. Talk to the owl occasionally and make encouraging noises. Once it's settled down you'll find that it sits calmly, absorbing every detail of its surroundings. It's likely to want to get a better view by jumping up on your head. This has to be discouraged because it's exceedingly painful, and the compromise I offer is a shoulder. The shoulder's a good place because you can then relax your left arm -- you don't have to carry the owl. The downside is the shit down your back. A second person is useful as they can clean you up. Don't tick the owl off for doing this -- it's almost impossible to train any bird not to poo on you. The best wipes to use are the moist car wipes as they kill the smell. Wearing a jersey or a fairly thick brushed cotton shirt gives the owl the best grip; otherwise it will have to grip tensely and uncomfortably throughout the walk.

Walking the release area several times before you let the owl go can only be to its advantage. The owl's smart little brain takes everything in and it undoubtedly retains a detailed memory of the area. Many if not all birds have this extraordinary abilty to map and memorise an area, which is why I can't recommend walking out with your owl enough.

Next page: Releasing the owl and afterwards

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